Full-fashioned stocking



April 8, 1941.

H. THIERFELDER ET AL FULL-FASHIONED STOCKING Filed July 9, 1938 5Sheets-Sheet l Fig. 4.

Inventors I Fig.7.

HAN5 fii/ERFELDER v ERNST D/ZETZ "anmun- April 8, 1941. Q H. THIERFELDERErAL 2.237.893

FULL-FASHIONED STOCKING Filed July 9, 1938 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 F IG. 7 vwvw wwpw 2 W WW nn m @WWHWVPPPPW YP PPPVWPPH WW9 wmm wwm I I I IINVENTORS HANS THIERFELDER ATTORNEYS tha thrones A t. i941- V mamash'UlL-FABHIONED s'rocxmo Hans "Thierf'elder and Ernst men, Auerbacbi.

Eran,

Germany Application July 9, 1938, Serial No. 218,352

. Inner-many March 1.9, H38

' t claim. (or. ts-m) a this invention relates-to full-fashionedstockinthe known kinds oi stockings narrowing of the lies for shaping thestocking involves the produotionoi fashioning points which extend over arelatively short portion of the leg. This is due to the tact thatnarrowing of the fabric must always be to the extent of two needlesoneach side. Uoyns'equently, the total amount 'of narrowint: reuuiredcan be eflected with a relatively email number of fashioning pointswhich must always be arranged at a moderate uniform distonne from oneanother, and the narrowing of the stocking isthus restricted to a shortpieceoi the lee. Uneven spacing of the fashioning points within thenarrowing zone of the leg has health avoided for the sake of a uniformappear once of the zone located between the fashioning points and theseam. A stocking, however, made in this way is not in tactfullyfashioned and when worn has various disadvantages. In particular,unsightly creases form easily in the region oi the ankle or the coursesarestretched too much in. this region, so that this part of the stockingis shinier than the adjacent partsand the goods have ii -defective look.

it is'th'e object of the a dividing sinker if a'perfect selvage is to beformed.

These objects invention primarily by providing a line composed not onlyof narrowing fashioning points but alsoof additional fashioning loops,the courses of additional mock fashioning loops. the courses containingthe latter being so worked that the width of the fabric is'not reduced.The fashioning points may'thusbe arranged in one-or more lines on eachside of the stocking and some oral! of, the narrowing fashioning pointsmayboplacedinthe seam. Thespacing ofthe individual fashioning pointsfrom one another may be chosen as desired without the appearpresentinvention to distribute the fashioning poznts in such manner that anceof the stocking being thereby detrimentally The invention is illustratedby way of exampie in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure l is aside view of a stocking made in accordance with the invention;

Figures 2 and 3 aredetaii views explaining the formation of the variousfashioning loops, the portions of courses transferred two gauges beingindicated by horizontal lines; the loops transferred only one gauge bypoints; and the loops not transferred in the rows offashioning loops bysmall circles; and

- Fig. 4 is a side View of another stocking made nor, and the fashioningpoints may all be posiare attained according to the tioned on a dot anddash line 2 as shown in Fig. '1; or distributed over several lines orpartly placed in the back seam of the stocking.

In order to be able to'insert between the actual fashioning pointsadditional mock fashioning points, i". e. those where there is nonarrowing of the fabric, the course portions 3 shown in Fig.

2 and Fig. 5 can be transferred two needles. 'In this case, however, inthose courses 2| (Rig. 5) in which narrowing is not to occur in spite ofvthe transfer of a more or less large group 4 of loops to the extent oftwo needles, there must be several loops at the edge which are nottrans; ferred. Only one or two of these border loops I, which aredirectly'adjacent to the course portion! transferred two needles, arethen trans-' ferred one needle by an additionalv narrowing operation soas partly to close the hole produced: by the first transfer. In order toobtain a, satisfactoryseivage, however, the border loop i and,

if desired, one or more adjacent loops are n transferred.

Instead of proceeding in the manner described, ,it is possible also toattain theoblectlof the invention in the manner indicated in Fight: and

- ioning points are to be present, and then the border loops il inthcourses in which nar rowing is desired are erred two needles b anarrowing operatiom method applied in the manufacture of very fine andthin stockings and in any case where the fashioning points are not tobecome as conspicuous as after a transfer by two needles, the loopswhich have been transferred two needles being hidden in the seam.

The object of the invention can also be attained when, in a course whereno narrowing is to be effected, a course portion 25 (Fig; 7) extendingfrom the line of fashioning points towards but not to the selvage istransferred. one needle, so that at a distance from the selvage and theseam to be formed there perforations having an open work effect appearand may be arranged so as to look like a pattern line. In the narrowedcourses, on the other hand, the entire portion between the line offashioning points and the selvage is transferred two needles, whereupon,if desired, a single loop may be subsequently transferred still anotherneedle to one side or the other in the open work line, to produce atthat point an opening which forms a pattern with the other openings.

Instead of transferring one needle all except a few loops at the.selvage of the portions lying between the selvage and the line offashioning points and then transferring these loops two needles in thosecourses 23 (Fig. 8) where there is to be actual narrowing, all of theportions in question could first be transferred one needle and theselvage loops in the courses to be narrowed then transferredanadditional needle.

The double transfer of loops required for forming a good selvage neednot necessarily ocour in one and the same course but may be effected intwo consecutive courses, the transfer in each being to the extent of oneneedle only. it is necessary, however, so to arrange the two narrowingoperations required for a fashioning point that the first occurs in acourse in which the carrier lays the thread from the selvage to whichthe fashioning point belongs in the direction of the other selvage andthat the second occurs in a course in which the carrier returns again tothe selvage nearest which the fashioning point is to be formed. In thisway actual and mock fashioning points are produced (shown in Figures 8and 7 respectively) which differ from each other only in that the threadin the courses to be narrowed is laid in the usual way on fewer needlesthan before, whereas ir the courses which are to have mock fashioningpoints the thread is laid upon just as maria" needles as in thepreceding course.

Whenever two fashioning points appear in or: course on the same side ofthe stocking, it is visable to place one of them in the seam. In thesame way, single fashioning points may be disposed in the seam if atcertain points of a fine-meshed stocking greater narrowing is desirablethan can be attained by the chosen spacing of the fashioning points intheir line. For other reasons too some or all fashioning points may bedisposed in the seam and accordingly the visible line of fashioningpoints preferably includes only mock points.

By interposing mock fashioning points between actual fashioning points.these points can be made to form a line of any length without appearingtoo scattered and giving the impression of a faulty piece of work.

Actual and mock fashioning points may alrerhate at will in the line,and, in particular, the number of mock points arranged between twonarrowed courses may vary withinwide limits,

assists e. g. between none and twelve. Figure 9 illustrates a method offorming a full fashioned stocking wherein both kinds of points, namely,actual and mock fashioning points, are made by transferring one needle agroup of loops at the selvage in two successive courses and placing thethread in the courses having actual fashioning points over one frameneedle less than in the preceding course, while the path of the carrieris left unchanged in courses having mock fashioning points. At pointswhere a portion of the leg is to be exceptionally narrowed there areonly a few mock fashioning points or none at all, while at the upper andlower end of the leg narrowing more mock than actual fashioning pointsare required. In practice, the number of fashioning points interposedbetween any two narrowed courses is generally first reduced from top tobottom according to a predetermined plan and the shape desired and thenincreased again.

For the reason stated, the line of fashioning points 2 is preferablycontinued downwardly below the region of narrowing of the calf of theleg and may terminate at the upper end of the high heel id or becontinued in the latter, particularly in the front boundary line 32thereof. A line of fashioning points of this kind, besides imparting tothe stocking a better fit especially in the region of the ankle andpreventing the formation of creases, affords the additional advantagethat the downward extension of the line makes the leg of the wearer ofthe stocking appear slender. For this same purpose the upper end it ofthe line 2 may be curved away from the seam iii of the stocking bygradually shortening, from the top of the line, the length of the courseportions. The zone between the line 2 and the seam it can be splicedlike the high heel to any extent. It may, moreover, consist of differentmaterial from that of the rest of the leg and be connected to theadjoining portion of the fabric by means of a split seam.

In order to insure a good fit of the stocking it is advantageous towiden the fabric in the region of the lower portion of the high heel,thus rendering it narrower around the ankle than in the region of theangle of theheel.

When the actual fashioning points are placed in the seam, the mock loopsor points may be replaced by a. tuck pattern, embroidery stitches, or byprinting colored dots on the finished goods. A similar effect can beproduced by the boundary line of a reinforced zone of varying widthprovided along the seam of the stocking.

-It is possible to go still farther in the production of aperfectly'shaped stocking by not only varying the spacing of the actualfashioning loops along the narrowing of the calf, for instance by makingit greater near the top and bottom of thecalf than in the middle, butalso by positioning the line of these loops at the boundary of the suralmuscles, so that the upper portion of the line is on the side of thestocking, as shown in Fig. 4, and its lower portion approaches more orless the back seam. In the example shown the line of fashioning loopshas a graceful wavy form, though it can also be rectilinear, and the twolines extending on either side of the back seam may converge downwardly,so that their lower ends meet in the back seam.

The fashioning points in other parts of the stocking, particularly inthe thigh according to Fig. 4, may be arranged and formed similarly tothose in the calf-portion. Furthermore, the

eneneee inc point and the correspondinn rtion oi every other coursewhich is to have a mock iashionine noint eircept tor a few loops at thesewage, end

then in every such other course transferr one needie in the direction oithe previous trans ier some oi the previously nntransferred loops whichare adjacent to the nreviousiy transferred portion,

d. The method of forming a iulhf stocg having actual and mock iashiogpoints, which comprises transferring one needle icons nt the science intwo successive courses,

' nieeinn in the conrsee horne nctuei iashioninc eii the loops of thecourses to be narrowed and of those to receive mock fashioning pointshetween the actual fashioning points and the eeivnge, except for a fewloops at the salvage, in the direction or the line to be formed orfashioning points and then transferring two needles the edge loops ofthe courses to be narrowed in the some direction.

3. The method of forming a full-fashioned stocking having actual andmock fashioning points, which comprises producing both kinds of pointsby transferring one needle a group of oints the threed diners over oneirenie needle less n in the recedirn, course and leaving in the conrsesherring inocir inshioninn points a the moth oi the cnrrier unchanged.

d. n inii inshioneti etocirinr herring n hacir s-enni end n iine oiinohionine points, said line hat/in n iorver nortioneirtendinni.snhstnntiaily pnrniiei to end nt or distance irom said hackseem and an upper portion eirtending away from said 'hncirseern end atn. erenter distance therefrom than the 'lon ernortion, said lineconsisting oi euctuni inshionine points as Weii as mock iashioninnpoints, the courses containinnl the letter heinn worked so he not toreduce the width of the inhric. I

.i. ii iuii-ieehioned stochinn hevine o hoot: se end n. line oiiesliioninc points, said line hnvinn n lower portionextending'suhstentiaily naraliei to end at e. distance irom said heckseam and upper portion extending away from said hack seam and at egreater distance therefrom then the lower portion, said iine consistingor ectuni fashioning points and niock fashioning points interposedbetween said actual fashioning points, the number of the mock fashioningpoints interposed between the actual fashioning points varying along theextent or said line of fashioning points.

\ HANS 'I'HIERFELDER.

ERNST DIE'IZ.

